Golden Week Part Two: Shanghai

After our whirlwind trip to Suzhou, Chris and I decided to be tourists in our own town.  Since Chris started his job less than one week after our arrival to Shanghai, we have not seen many monuments as a couple.  It was about time he joined me on some local field trips.

After resting on Thursday, Friday we decided to do what many tourists long to do in Shanghai…eat street food and shop at the fake markets. 

Many street food vendors sell meat on a stick all over the city.  Good stuff! 

I'll take two...

Chinese fake markets are not for the claustrophobic or agoraphobic.  After walking through the plastic door flapped entrance, hoards of customers weave through a maze of stalls and are greeted by aggressive salespeople offering Gucci, Prada, Rolex, DVDs, Deats by Dr. Dre and more.   (That is not a typo folks. J ) Aggressive salespeople will gently grab your arm or shove a laminated product sheet in your face in hopes of landing a sale. 

Chris bargains for some DVDs.

The only problem with these markets is what you see isn’t always what you get.  For example, I thought I purchased the movie Campaign starring Will Farrell.  Imagine the disappointment I felt as I popped the movie in my DVD player to find Game Change, a movie about the McCain campaign.  I could not believe my eyes.  The DVD itself had the Campaign movie art on it.  (I double-checked.)  At least I was able to watch my other movies.  At the bargain price of 7-10 RMB ($1-$2), I should not expect these movies to be flawless.

After scoring some DVDs and a pair of ‘Prada’ shades, it was time for a rest.  

You make the call...Prada or Frada?

After rehydrating at the rooftop bar at the Museum of Contemporary Arts, we decided it was time to take in some culture.  The Shanghai Art museum was within walking distance, so we took the 10 minute walk to a museum Frommer’s called  “superb” and “full of fantastic old photographs in their original fittings”. 

When we entered the museum, we were told admission was free.  I figured that the museum was running a Golden Week special.  We walked up the stairs to see a minute clothing exhibit.  That was the only art in the museum. 

What was the artist thinking when creating this installation?

This exhibit completely redefines minimalism.

I guess the museum folks decided to clean and renovate the galleries during the break. 

We figured it was time to cut our losses, go home, and have a comfy night in.

Saturday was a brand new day.  The sun was peeking through the clouds, so we decided to take an elevator ride to the top of the Pearl Tower.  Built in 1994, the Pearl Tower was the tallest structure in China until the World Financial Center was built.  I did not care that it wasn’t the tallest structure in Shanghai.  Since the moment I saw it lit at night during our information trip in April, I knew I had to take a ride up to the top.

I could not wait to head to the top of the tower.

Needless to say, the view from the 269^th floor of the tower was literally breathtaking.  I am normally not afraid of heights, but when I stepped onto the Plexiglas floor I had a minor panic attack.  “What would happen if this thing cracked?” kept playing through my mind.  

This was the view down.  

 To make matters worse, Chris told me,

“Don’t worry honey, Plexiglas is very sturdy.  That is unless the manufacturers messed up the chemistry of the materials.” 

If Plexiglas is so sturdy, why are you hanging on to a handrail and standing on a beam???

We were on the next elevator down to the lobby.

Saturday night we headed out for Turkish food...yummy!

After dinner, we decided to hang out at the House of Blues and Jazz.  Good times!

After a very relaxing week, I was very ready to get back to work!  

Pottying in Shanghai!

If you are squeamish, get easily grossed out, or get annoyed by toilet humor, please do yourself a favor and stop reading this post. Please know that I do not intend to offend anyone, but I do feel a strong need to educate my readers on the good, bad and ugly of Shanghainese toilet culture. 

I have been mentally composing this post for quite some time.  I was just waiting for the appropriate time to post this information.  After having to teach the word, “poop”, to a second grade student, and reprimanding a fourth grade student for drawing a steaming waste pile under a monkey, I felt it was time to face the music.

The good news is the student understands the concept of usually, sometimes, and never!

Like most things in Shanghai, toilets are very diverse. 

Often times when I need to go outside of my apartment, I find myself praying, please Lord, let the toilet I am about to see be a good one.  Or at least let it have a clean seat.  About 70% of the time, He delivers.

Some upscale restaurants and apartments that cater to Japanese tenants have very high-end toilets.  These toilets sport buttons that will allow your bottom to be warmed and cleansed while or after doing your business. 

This is an example of a Japanese toilet console.  I thought universal remotes were complicated.  Source: Wikipedia Commons

I have never had the opportunity to use a Japanese toilet, and am not sure that I would know how to program my desired settings if I did get an opportunity to use one.  Props to the Japanese; at least you can sit while doing your business, and you will emerge from the bathroom feeling fresh and clean.

Many Chinese toilets are very similar to the good old western toilets I was trained to use 33 years ago.  Since Shanghai wanted to prove its status as an international city a few years ago, many establishments have installed western toilets.   Fortunately, our apartment has this type of toilet.  The only confusing part of my home toileting experience is deciding which button to push. 

When do I push each button? PS, don't press both buttons at once.  The water will keep running.

FYI, both buttons do the same thing, so I just push either one when I am finished and go on my merry way.

Unfortunately most schools and older buildings have the most disgusting, confusing type of toilet…the squattie.

Introducing the squattie.  Chinese folks like them because they are hygenic. 

The first time I encountered a squattie was on Easter Sunday at McDonald’s in Xuhui.  I walked in the stall expecting a toilet, and much to my surprise, was greeted with porcelain, urinal like object in the floor.  I had no clue as to what to do, and felt like I was two years old again.  I needed to be squattie trained!

Many questions flooded my mind.  Do I stand?  Do I sit?  Will I clog this thing if I flush toilet paper?  Where is the toilet paper?  Will this thing handle solid and liquid waste?  Do I face the door or the wall when using it? 

To make matters worse, I didn’t feel comfortable asking anyone these questions.  All toilet related matters are discreet in my culture.  By some miracle I did what I thought I needed to do, and did not splatter myself (thank God!).

This is one of my workplace squatties.

Fortunately, I was semi-squattie trained as part of my job orientation.  The direct quote from one of my superiors was,

“About the toilets… you need to get used to them.  This is China.”

As a service to you, dear reader, I will share my limited squattie training wisdom.

Question #1: Do I stand?  Do I sit? 

Standing or squatting is fine.  DON’T SIT!

Question #2: Will I clog this thing if I flush toilet paper?

I don’t know, but don’t risk it.   Be like a native and throw TP and other personal hygiene items in the trash.

Question #3:  Where is the toilet paper?

Many times, it is non-existent.  Fortunately many stores sell multipacks of purse sized tissue pouches that are similar to Kleenex.  Stock up on these frequently and bring a pack to the restroom when you gotta go.

I thought these were only meant for blowing your nose...

Question #4: Will this thing handle solid and liquid waste?

Liquids are fine, but the jury is still out about solids.  I know it is a good idea to make friends with an establishment that has a western toilet if you work in a squattie only environment.  One of my teacher friends mentioned she made friends with a local restaurant owner across the street from her school just in case of emergency. 

Question #5: Do I face the door or the wall when using it? 

It is a matter of personal preference.  Just don’t splatter!!

As a bonus tidbit of information, carry hand sanitizer.  Soap may not be readily available when you need it.

I hope I have covered this topic as tactfully as possible.  Mom, if you are still reading this I am sorry if I have embarrassed you.  To everyone else, I hope this post hasn’t been a waste of time. J

Golden Week Part I: Suzhou

Since Chris and I had eight days off for Mooncake Festival and Chinese National day, we decided to do what any self-respecting Chinamen would do on a holiday…travel. One of Chris’ Bosch Charleston friends, Christian, lives in Suzhou and invited us to his home for a couple days of exploration, barbeque, and football!  So we sent Ditka and Leia to Jia Liang kennels to play with their puppy friends and we got out of town.

Suzhou here we come!

Ditka and Leia loved running around in a big, grassy yard at Dr. Jenny's!

The first part of our adventure was the train ride itself.  A train trip in China was on my bucket list so Chris booked two first class tickets on the G-Train to Suzhou for Monday afternoon.  The G-Train is a bullet train that travels upwards of 200 miles per hour!  Fortunately, a 2-hour car trip was trimmed down to a 25-minute breeze! 

Chris outside the Shanghai railway station.

We weren't the only ones who had the idea to get out of town.

All Aboard!!! (They did not say that.  I just imagined they would.)

One of the perks of a first class train ticket is free OJ!  Gotta love it!

I <3 the train!

Upon arrival to Suzhou we were greeted by Christian, his wife Sabine, and our 13 month old tour guide, Henrick.  We spent the evening catching up over the Lions game.  It was wonderful to settle in with some Charleston friends!

The next morning Henrick suggested that we say good morning to the fish at Jinji Hu lake, so we fueled up on Starbucks and took a stroll.  Many people were out flying kites, riding bikes, fishing, and enjoying the beautiful autumn weather.

The fish are great!  Let me show you...

This is the view from our side of the lake!

The park had a fabo Don Quixote statue!

I need to get an Angry Birds kite!

After our stroll, Henrick was a little sleepy, so Christian took over tour guide duties and took us to Shangtang St. for lunch and a little shopping.

Sorry guys, I will catch you later!

Stepping on Shangtang St. was like stepping into China 1100 years ago.  The street is lined with traditional Chinese architecture, and people enjoy floating from one end of the street to the other in the canal adjacent to the buildings.  As we were walking, I felt like my high school history book was coming to life.

An arial shot of Shangtan St.

Shangtan Lu.

Cheers from lunch!

Chris strikes a pose in the middle of shopping.

If you travel a little too far, you may run into some hairy crab, a Suzhou delicacy.

Some nice ladies cook up some honey flavored taffy.

Chris takes a bite of the yummy honey candy.

Large, silk masks were hung around the streets.

After our stroll, we headed back to Henrick’s house for the best cheeseburger I have had since I arrived in Shanghai, a little football (soccer) in the backyard, and some American football!  (Short lesson…if you are an expat, the NFL network has a FABULOUS streaming package you can subscribe to overseas.  You can catch every game live, and the site allows you to play any game you like whenever you want to see it! )

The following day, Henrick was a little sleepy so Chris and I decided to take a trip to the Humble Administrator’s Garden solo.  A Ming Dynasty poet who was persecuted by the East Imperial Secret Service developed the garden in the 1600’s.   All the man wanted was to have a place where he could build his own house, plant trees, and grow vegetables, so he worked with a friend to create a beautiful haven in Suzhou.  Today, the garden is owned by the Chinese government and is protected by the UN as a World Heritage site.  Chris and I thought that this would be the perfect place to unleash our inner shutterbug.  Unfortunately, so did half of the population of Suzhou.

After we purchased scalped tickets and shoved through the crowds, we entered one of the most picturesque gardens I have ever seen.

Unfortunately the theme song from Gilligan's Island got stuck in my head when I saw this house.

After about 30 minutes, I noticed many lenses and iPhones pointing my way.  Apparently large, blonde (by bottle) women were something of a novelty in these parts.   Eventually, I just started to smile and wave at the cameras.  Mothers approached me wanting me to pose for a shot with their children. Strangers wanted a photo op. I don’t know if I felt like a zoo animal, or a D-list celebrity.  I do know that I take lots of pictures of random Chinese happenings to post on this blog, so perhaps this was payback.  I knew the pictures would be taken regardless of my approval, so I may as well smile and give them something good.

Me with random stranger #1.

Me on my way to become a D-List celebrity

After our garden photo shoot, it was time to grab lunch, do a little more toy shopping and take a 25-minute train trip back home. 

Overall, we had a great time.  We enjoyed spending time with friends and exploring new territory.  For the second half of our golden week, we will be tourists in our own city.  Stay tuned!  There is more to come!